Tis the season

Tis the season for all things Christmas…

Christmas in Austria couldn’t take place without the world-famous Christkindlesmarkt, or Christmas markets. I’m not sure if such a thing exists in the states. If it does, not in Kansas. The Christmas markets here attract visitors from all over the globe who come to purchase locally hand-made crafts, enjoy the ambiance and drink Glühwein. The identical market booths stand side-by-side adorned with lights and triangular rooftops. They beckon each slightly tipsy passer-by with their assortment of colorful crafts from Santa Claus ornaments, to bees wax candles and hand woven scarves. The Chriskindlesmarkt is a world of its own inside each city where you forget where you are; which is a hard thing to do for a small-town American girl fascinated by European architecture.

I’ve visited quite a few of these markets lately and the one in Salzburg numerous times. It adds a new dimension to the Christmas season. In America, Santa is perched in front of Wal-Mart ringing his bell for collection money and advertisements run on billboards and TV commercials for huge Christmas discounts at every store from Old Navy to Best Buy. Here, Christmas is still a religious holiday with personal meaning. The Christkindlesmarkt isn’t a large advertisement production or a way to make millions of dollars. Hopefully a little money is made by the vendors who spend all year crafting their crafts, but more or less it’s a true symbol of Christmas.

Another Austrian Christmas tradition that has lasted through time is the Krampus. Krampus is a large, furry beast reminiscent of the devil and every evil beast you can imagine. He comes out of hiding the beginning of December and punishes the children who didn’t behave well throughout the year. So instead of receiving coal from Santa, the children of the Alpine region get beaten by this beast if they’re naughty.

Thankfully, many parents don’t actually subject their children to the visual Krampus. But, they know of him. For these children all they know of Krampus is from the bag of peanuts or candy he leaves outside their door on December 6. For those children whose parents choose to subject them to Krampus, years of vivid, violent dreams and an undying fear of monsters is in store for them. I saw quite a few screaming, crying children at the recent Krampuslauf I attended and my heart went out to them as I myself was screaming and running from the many Krampusse chasing me with their whips.

They actually whip you. In America, this would never pass, but in Austria they actually whip you. I had a bruise in the shape of the several small tree branches that stung my leg for four days! I haven’t been that terrified for a long time and can’t believe this is a Christmas tradition that takes place year after year. Nevertheless, it is an interesting tradition that I would be sad to see go, like many of the natives here who want to keep their ancient traditions alive.