There are so many things I love about Salzburg, and Austria, and living in Europe.  I’ve made a quaint life for myself here.  Presently, this is my life.  I have a home.  I have friends.  I go to school at the University of Salzburg.  I know my way around.  I suppose it feels sort of like it did graduating high school or leaving Emporia State, or dealing with any big, looming change.

I guess I can honestly say, just like graduating Paola High or leaving Emporia State, part of me is ready to move on and enter the next stage of my life.  Sometimes there is a little voice inside me reminding me that I’m nearing my quarter of a century birthday and I need to grow up, get a job, a place to live and quit living such a care free life gallivanting around Europe and claiming residence in the picturesque city of The Sound of Music.  But it seems so different this time around.

Before I had always had a plan.  When I graduated from high school and left home I knew I was going to Emporia State University.  During the course of my years at Emporia, I knew I wanted to study abroad and eventually go to graduate school for art therapy.  So the plan had always been, college, study abroad, graduate school, art therapist.  I still have a passion for art as healing and continuing my education, but now the world seems so open and the opportunities are endless!

If I’ve learned anything about life, it’s that things don’t always work out as planned.  I guess one could take that the pessimistic route and say, “well if things never work out as planned then why plan anything?”  Well, if you know me at all you know that I’m a planner.  I make lists.  I stick to schedules.  I’m always the one 10 minutes early wondering where is everyone else?  One of my faults has always been that I get incredibly disappointed when things don’t turn out the way I planned.  I think I’ve finally overcome that awful personality trait.  Of course I’m still making plans and have goals, but maybe with less detail and less expectations about the outcomes.  I think that as long as we are striving towards something, and never settling for mediocre, then life is good.  It’s human nature to strive towards something, which I was reminded of on my recent trip to Berlin.  If  you recall history, they had to build a wall to keep the people in East Berlin because no one wanted to settle for mediocre lives!  I’ve made a promise to myself to always strive and never settle for less than happiness.  I guess I always had that spark inside me or I never would have dedicated 9 months of my life to Salzburg, Austria without knowing what to expect.  My time here has just fed the flame.  I thank Salzburg everyday for what she has given me.

So what now?  I’m packing, studying, writing final papers.  I’ve turned into a sentimental maniac who says goodbye to the grey cat with white stripes on the corner of Robert Preussler Strasse and the shortcut through the bushes of the Leiner parking lot, to the gorgeous view of the mountains on the path I sometimes take to class, just because it may be the last time I ever see them.  I’ve already had three friends leave me and return to their lives in their respective countries, Ciara, Kelly and Kim.  I’ve crammed in last minute visits to Berlin, Vienna to see the family one more time, and the Eisriesenwelt in Werfen (ice caves in Werfen, Austria).  What I have to look forward to this week is an emotional roller coaster of goodbyes and all things having to do with the word last.

Then early next Thursday morning, very early on June 25, I’ll be on my way back to Kansas to be greeted by my incredibly loving and supportive parents at exactly 4:47 p.m. Kansas time.  Maybe it’s cliché to say that it seems like just yesterday when they drove me to Kansas City International Airport and waved me off on my journey.  I still remember their faces through the glass as they stood outside the terminal waiting for me to board and waving goodbye.  They were the last ones to say goodbye and will be the first ones to say hello.

Before I know it I’ll be back in the states re-adjusting to “normal” life and figuring out my next step once I proudly receive my college diplomas from ESU in August, Bachelor of Science in Art and Bachelor of Art in German.  Then what?  Career?  Temporary job?  Graduate applications?  Kansas or California?  St. Louis or New Orleans?  (With what I hear of the economy, this college grad may be staying with good ol’ mom for longer than I had originally expected.)

I’ll be surrounded by familiar faces, familiar language and scarfing down familiar foods, but I’m not really sure what to expect in terms of how I will feel.  This is all new to me as I have never left my home for so long and been so reluctant to return.

As far as my blog goes, you haven’t heard the last of me just yet.  I want to give myself this week to digest the reality of what is happening and give Salzburg a proper written farewell, which is how I do it best, because I’m not quite ready to say goodbye…

I returned from Madrid on Sunday after visiting my friend Steff, who studied with me in Salzburg last semester and then moved to Madrid to study Spanish. We had a couple days off of uni for the Himmelfahrt holiday and it seemed like a good idea to go to Spain! I flew there on Wednesday with Vicky and when we met Steff and Karin, our Austrian friend who arrived a couple days earlier, in the metro station I realized just how hot it is closer to the equator. We checked in to Hostel One, which by the way was the nicest hostel I’ve stayed in so far, and explored a little bit of Madrid while I could feel drops of sweat rolling down my back. Still getting used to the metric system, Steff kept replying how it was 33 degrees and I smirked every time thinking about how 33 degrees Fahrenheit is practically freezing. It was about 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

That first night in Madrid we went out for tapas and sangria. Although my absolute favorite part of traveling is experiencing the local cuisine, I don’t always want to know of what it’s really comprised. After the first bite of our first dish, which I knew was a type of meat on bread, I grunted with satisfaction and Steff informed me that what I was eating was blood sausage. Didn’t really want to know that fact since blood sausage is actually made from blood. I did, however, eat it anyway and tried to remain in an open frame of mind. (At least when I was in China eating random foods and the waiting staff told us what it was we still didn’t understand.)

The next couple days Vicky, Karin and I puttered around town enjoying the Spanish architecture and waiting for Steff to either get out of class or wake up. Though I cursed myself while I was in Madrid for not ever learning Spanish, or even taking one course, I knew quite a bit more than I had thought. Although it was mostly food items, since I eat a lot of Mexican back home, and the numbers 1-10, which I learned from Sesame Street so many years ago, I was a little proud.

Besides being able to spend time with friends in an exotic place, my definite favorite site in Madrid was the Meseo del Prado, in which I was privileged to see The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. I stood and admired this bizarre painting I first fell in love with during an art history class. Feeling guilty for inhabiting the prime gazing spot, I left the Bosch painting after several minutes and wandered throughout the rest of the museum. Other well-known artists are on display in this museum such as Goya, Valezquez and Reubens, but none of them compared to how I felt standing in front of The Garden of Earthly Delights. The triptych portrays God next to Adam and Eve on the right, a chaotic orgy of earthly delights in the center, and the left seems to be a sort of hell with its own unique creatures and actions. It’s the sort of painting you can stare at forever and find new details, which is why I returned to it one more time before we left the Prado.

The food, the sites, the clubs in Spain are different than anywhere else in Europe I’ve been. I suppose though, it’s no surprise. With its gypsy pants, flamenco dancing, spicy cuisine, hot and humid climate, and close to the equator location it’s more of a Mediterranean culture than European. Maybe a bit similar to Italy, but the people weren’t as enthusiastic towards tourists and I didn’t meet a single waiter or sales person who spoke English. This fact alone was shocking, although a bit refreshing. I’m used to the natives identifying my American accent and speaking English to me even though I always try to speak the native language, even if it’s just a few words.

Well the days go by and before I knew it was time to return to Salzburg and leave my friend Steff and Madrid behind. I prepared myself not to tear up even though I knew it may be the last time I saw my English friend for an unspecified amount of time. The Atlantic Ocean may be a hindrance on our relationship in the future.

Though I was sad to leave Steff, I wasn’t the Madrid heat. But when I arrived in Salzburg the weather wasn’t much different. Definitely hot and humid, similar to Kansas summers. A lot seems to be reminding me of home these days. Or maybe I’m just thinking of excuses with the looming departure approaching. Nevertheless, I’m grateful to have once again visited an unfamiliar spot on the globe, pin another point on my map, and return to my home-for-now, Salzburg.

It’s so close to June 25, the departure date on my Lufthansa electronic ticket to Kansas City, that I can smell my dad’s meat smoking on the cooker and taste the margarita’s with fresh lime and Sauza tequila that my mom and I will drink. I can hear the voices of those I haven’t heard for so long, my friends, my family. I imagine the stories they’ll tell. Zane’s first words. Ellie’s wedding, how she looked, and he looked, and how they looked at each other. New jobs, new engagements and old gossip. The same laughter. The same love.

But, hellos mean goodbyes.

I’ve reached that point of this study-abroad experience where I’m looking forward to the old familiarities of home and already missing the new quirks of this place. It’s a teeter-totter of emotions. As excited as I am to eat a Kansas City barbeque sandwich, I’m just as sad to leave my new friends and not be able to look out my window to the mountains. It’s inevitable though. All things come to an end eventually. I guess that’s life. And I’m learning that dealing with change doesn’t really get easier.

Sunday on the Deutschen Bahn, on the way home from our day-trip to the Neuschwanstein Castle, it was late and we were tired. I sat across from Kelly and Ciara, who had their headphones on and had dozed off. The others were either on their way there or quietly chatting with each other. I was in sort of a strange mood and as I scrolled through my iPod looking for something I hadn’t listened to in a while, I stopped on Hed Pe’s Broke, a late adolescent favorite. So much so that after nearly 5 years of not listening to the album I remembered every word, every scream and every guitar riff. Music as a time traveler. I instantly thought of Alix’s 1991 Grand Marquis, white exterior with blue cloth seats, and not to forget the giant blemish on the passenger side. I thought of us cruising around Paola, wasting gas, listening to this album with our feet positioned dangerously out the window, and screaming the words until our voices cracked. Teenage angst. I thought of Mary Beth Rayne’s computer class my junior year of high school, and a night at 1312 Center Street in Emporia. That album carried me through many years and many memories.

So, to say the least, I was having a memory moment, but I looked at my sleepy Northern Irish friends and smiled. I feel lucky. And damn I feel old! As M.C.U.D. shouts a lyric through my ear buds about the year 2001, I realized just how long ago I had listened to this album on a daily basis. A lot has happened since I was that naïve and slightly rebellious 18-year-old girl. Now I’m nearly 25, with brown hair and bangs, single, educated and soon to be properly jobless. I’m sitting on a train somewhere between Füssen, Germany and Salzburg, Austria and have had more life experiences than most people twice, or even three times my age.

Despite these delightful trips down memory lane, and anticipation to return to the land of over-abundance, I’m freaking out a little about my remaining time in Salzburg. I only have two months left! But, this gorgeous, sunny 70 degree weather makes it easier for outdoor excursions, relaxing under the sun and appreciating the breath-taking landscape. I’m going to make the most of the time I have left here. My motivation to be productive has been bumped up a notch. Since our mother earth has shifted slightly more towards the sun, I’ve done quite a bit. Picnics in Hellbrunn Park, walks along the river, an emotional visit to the Dauchau Concentration Camp memorial site and Neuschwanstein Castle, or the Disney Castle. I’ve got a few more trips rolling around in my head. Beth and I will meet soon to make final arrangements for these excursions. But I’ve made a pact with myself to wake up each day and be fully aware of my surroundings and the reasons I came here.

Sarah, Ali and I visited the Coliseum our first night in Rome. It was dark and the ancient structure was beautifully lit, accentuating its architectural qualities, the arches, the detail. There was hardly anyone around and it was a peaceful night. I walked off a little by myself to admire the structure I’ve been longing to see since seeing one of my favorite movies, Gladiator, and learning about it in art history class. I stood there and had one of those moments in life when you feel so transcendental. A “high on life” moment where it seems as though everything is as it should be and you’ve finally found that next puzzle piece to your life (only 3,224 pieces to go!).

I stood there. I smiled. I was in Rome with old friends standing on the same ground as the seat of the ancient Roman Empire. I felt content, took a deep breath in until my belly was full and blew out a few things I’d been holding on to. I let go and have felt lighter ever since.

Rome wasn’t the first place my old friends and I visited after their long anticipated arrival, but for me, it was one of the most memorable. The day of the big arrival had finally come, Feb. 18, 2009. The morning after my return to Salzburg from Ireland I traveled once again to Munich Airport to meet my friends. The culprits: Sarah Sparks, my opinionated but loving college friend, colleague and roommate. Ali Cooper, my soft-spoken but passionate friend. We were introduced to each other by ex-boyfriends, and though the relationships didn’t last, our friendship did.

After a few days acquainting my dear friends Ali and Sarah with my current home, Salzburg, we departed for a 5 day trip to Paris. It was on this trip to the city of romance that I realized just how much Europe has changed me. The relaxed, slow pace of life has taken over a bit of my severely organized, must have a plan and a list personality. Before heading to the Munich Airport, which is a two hour train ride from Salzburg, to hop on a plane and fly to Paris, I roughly estimated the time I thought we needed to leave Salzburg without checking train departures. We almost missed our flight. Although I’ll never do that again, I’ve realized how relaxed I’ve become and I’m actually grateful. I still make lists, but I let go of more things that have tended to hold me back in the past.

So, Paris at last. The city of art and goat cheese sandwiches. With all that Paris has to offer, I think Ali, Sarah and I were most excited about the most famous art museum in the world, the Louvre. We awed at the view along Seine river, stood by the Eiffel Tower at night with its jazzy lighting, guzzled cups of espresso in a few Paris cafes, and even paid homage to Jim Morrison’s grave in Pierre Lachaise Cemetery. However, we spent 10 glorious hours in the Louvre. The Venus de Milo and Winged Victory of Samothrace, Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People, David’s The Oath of the Horattii, Gericault’s Raft of Medusa, and of course Leonardo da Vinci’s Madonna on the Rocks and Mona Lisa. A surprise appearance by one of my favorite paintings, Ingres’s Grand Odalisque. It was an exhausting day with many breaks for sustenance, but I think all three of us left the Louvre feeling satisfied and as if we had accomplished something great.

These trips to Paris, Venice, Rome and Amsterdam had been planned on a budget, a budget for three unemployed young adults. But, sometimes you have to splurge. Our last night in Paris we decided to act like civilized adults, walk through the Paris red light district, and eat seafood at a fancy restaurant. Up until that point we had considered ourselves experienced seafood connoisseurs and excited to show off our culinary expertise in Paris, but we were not prepared for what we had ordered. Shrimp, muscles and clams are ordinary seafood specialties. But, when the waiter brought out the ice-covered tray topped with raw, unseasoned muscles and slimy clams still in the shell and teeny, tiny shrimp with eyeballs still attached we sat in silence deciding how to eat this strange food and not appear as uncivilized Americans. With cues from our French neighbors and much laughing the meal was devoured. I can say that the experience was enjoyed much more than the cuisine.

And then there’s Italy… Sarah and I took to Italy much more than France. Though we enjoyed the beautiful city of Paris, Italy seemed to offer us comfort. It was more welcoming and easy-going. We didn’t feel as though we always had to be on our best behavior. Though Ali I know enjoyed Italy as well, and even stayed in the country after Sarah and I left, I think she had left her heart in Paris.

Venice, the city of canals, was of course beautiful, romantic and offered overpriced gondola rides. We spent one day roaming the canals, visiting the shops and eating gelato in the city on the water and then hopped on the train on to Rome. As I’ve mentioned, Rome sparked something in me. The Vatican City (including the Sistine Chapel), the ancient ruins of the Roman Forum and the Coliseum… I felt as though I was walking among the great Caesars, philosophers and artists of the Roman past. I stood in the midst of the remnants of Palatine Hill, where the wealthy Romans built their homes before the common era, and couldn’t help but speak out loud, “for the glory of Rome!” For these reasons I hope I’m able to return to Italy again and visit the cities I wasn’t able to see during this trip... Florence, Milan, Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento…

And eat the best pizza I’ve ever tasted in my life! Slices of eggplant on a thin buttery, crunchy crust… mamma mia!

After a week apart, Sarah in Germany visiting a high school friend, Ali bravely gallivanting around Italy by herself, and me back in Salzburg attending my first classes of the summer semester, we reunited in Amsterdam. All I can say about Amsterdam is that it wasn’t quite what we had expected.

Sarah and Ali left a month later on March 17, 2009. I can’t explain how exciting it was to see familiar faces and mesh my old life with new. We partied hard, traveled hard, ate well, and crammed in an insane amount of site-seeing for one month’s time. I think we also learned a few things about ourselves and each other. Of course no trip with three women can go smooth sailing without a little bit of drama, but we worked it out and were still grateful for the opportunities and the company. I miss Sarah and Ali already, but they’ve tided me over for now and I’m ready to make the most of my three remaining months in Salzburg. The sun is shining, it’s 70 degrees Fahrenheit, I’m on Easter break and life is good.

P.S. Congratulations to my dear friends Mike Walker and Wan-ting Huang who just got engaged in Las Vegas!!!

]]> http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2009/04/07/semester-break-part-2-dedicated-to-wan-ting/feed/ 1 clarkstephanie http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2009/03/25/semester-break-part-1/ http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2009/03/25/semester-break-part-1/#comments Wed, 25 Mar 2009 14:57:53 +0000 clarkstephanie http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/?p=75 ]]> Yes, I’ve been absent for a while. I apologize. But, it’s been for good reason. Traveling around Europe, enjoying colloquial foods and wine, visiting world famous sites and catching up with old friends. Good reason to me.

The non-stop 6 week whirlwind tour of indulgence started February 7 after I completed my last final in Frühchristliche und Karolingische Kunst. Semester break had begun full force on a plane to Belfast, Northern Ireland. Somewhere in transit on the Aer Lingus flight between Munich, Germany and Belfast, I shook-off my Semesternote, said goodbye to Wintersemester 2008, and put on my vacation shoes.

Ten days I spent on the land of Leprechauns, never seeing one, with two amazingly welcoming families. My vibrant, full of life and smiles friend Ciara offered me a bed in her home in Northern Ireland. During my stay with the Fitzpatricks I learned of the history of violence between the north and the south, witnessed the very spot where the Titanic was built, survived a party bus and began my addiction to tea. I also experienced the good ol’ Irish hospitality.

In my experience traveling to new places, it’s my impression that nothing surpasses the opportunity to stay in someone’s home and actually meet people who live there. Anyone can experience the sites, sounds and tastes of a certain culture, but not everyone experiences the heart of the country, its people. I’m sure it’s been said a million times by a million other travelers, but once you get past the differences in looks, history, language, government… People of the world really are more similar than different. And it is the people of that place who have created its history, constructed its architecture, perfected its cuisine and have lured you to their land. No original idea, but I’m just grateful for the opportunities I’ve had to befriend fun, honest, dependable people from other countries and visit their homes.

Since I was already on the island, another friend from Salzburg, Denise, generously let me invite myself to her parent’s home and tag along on a road-trip adventure to Galway with her sisters Aoife and Catherine. Denise, who I’ve been spending more time with recently, is a girl who gets straight to the point and likes to have a good time. Her family, the Shovlins, also welcomed me and made me feel like I had been a family friend for years. With Denise I got the chance to lollygag around Dublin for the day and even tour the Guinness Storehouse enjoying a fresh pint at the Gravity Bar on the top. I celebrated Valentine’s Day in the lovely little town of Galway with it’s quaint streets, colorful shop fronts and picturesque shore side walk where one kicks the wall at the end of the walk twice without knowing the exact reason why. That’s Ireland.

After 10 days on the go in Ireland and Northern Ireland I was ready to come back to my temporary home in Salzburg and welcome two familiar faces; but sad to leave the comfy homes of the two Irish families and the atmosphere I miss so much from my family back home. I feel closer to my Salzburg friends after the trip and more torn than ever. I’ve created this little life for myself here and am damn proud of what I’ve accomplished on my own. I love Salzburg. However, I do miss my family, friends and even Kansas a bit. It’s going to be bittersweet leaving this dream. Old friends, in the name of Sarah and Ali, couldn’t have come at a better time…

To be continued.

I used to think that telling me I’m not really American was a compliment. That’s what my friends meant by the statement. They’re complementing me on my behavior… I don’t act like a “typical” American. Considering how the world has viewed our country in the past years and during the last government it really is a compliment. For my friends, it’s a way of separating me from my country. They’ve already accepted who I am and refuse to link me to the Wal-Mart shopping, obese McDonald’s eating, SUV driving, gas guzzling, Iraq War initiating, George W. Bush and his Texas-shaped-waffle-iron America.

Like I said before, this comment used to make me feel proud. I didn’t want to be associated with those “typical” American ideals. I didn’t want to act like a selfish, greedy American who shops at Wal-Mart and charges a 95 cent pack of gum on my Visa Card. But, the comment made me think about what it truly is to be an American and I’m forced to ask this question almost on a daily basis. Whether it’s a French friend making a remark about how Americans don’t learn a second language or simple questions about what living in Kansas is like, I’m forced to identify myself one way or the other with America. I still don’t have an answer to the big question, “What does it mean to be an American,” but I have more pride in my country since I’ve been living in Austria.

I used to stand more in the middle of the road. I wasn’t anti-America but definitely wasn’t pro-America either. I didn’t agree with our government, our over-abundance of goods and waste or that song by John Mellencamp “This is our country.” I think I’ve finally realized though that I am an American no matter what opinions I have about our status in the world or how I choose to behave. And, I can’t believe I’m admitting this, but from time-to-time I actually wish there was a Wal-Mart or at the very least an American grocery store in Salzburg. I find myself thinking sometimes that I would give anything to stand in an entire aisle of cereal or be able to choose between 75 brands of face wash!

Now I’m not about to join the army when I return or start wearing American flags as a fashion statement, but the semester is over and I’ve changed. I’m thinking about how I’ve spent my time here. Studying abroad is of course about education, but not just academic education. The experience is about learning the language and culture of your host institution as well as learning about yourself.

This realization helped me out a bit when I learned that the University of Salzburg awarded me my first D in Österreichische Geschichte: Die Alpen (Austrian History of the Alps). This D will forever blemish my transcript but it’s not a reflection of what I’ve actually learned here, or haven’t learned. When I got my test back and looked at my grade, I was of course upset, but realized that I have actually discovered so much since I arrived in Salzburg four months ago. The first day of this class I didn’t understand anything the instructor said, but by the end I began to understand at least bits and pieces or general ideas. I’ve learned the language, the culture, how to be truly independent and even pieces of myself I would have never known otherwise…

like actually admitting to being a proud American and wanting to shop at Wal-Mart.

]]> http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2009/02/03/youre-not-an-american/feed/ 1 clarkstephanie http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2009/01/14/christmas-vacation/ http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2009/01/14/christmas-vacation/#comments Wed, 14 Jan 2009 21:01:49 +0000 clarkstephanie http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/?p=59 ]]> Procrastination seems to be my middle names these days. Yes, Christmas is over. Happened 3 weeks ago and News Years 2009 has lived and expired this year too. I haven’t been keeping my loyal readers up-to-date with the adventures, scandals and tribulations in the life of Stephanie Clark. In fact, I’m writing this blog at the moment because I’m trying to find an excuse not to study for finals. I wish I could say I had a good reason not to have written, but I don’t. When I arrived back in Salzburg after my glorious Christmas vacation I did nothing but lay around and watch movies and go to the pub of choice, O’Malleys.

Now I’m reaping the consequences of being a lazy student this semester. I’ve had a horrible flu all week with a temperature peaking at 101 degrees Fahrenheit. I’ve missed all my classes this week and have been cooped up in my tiny room with nothing to do but think about my friends and family back home and try to download movies off the internet. I’ve tried to study and complete my homework but the sickness clouds my mind and allows no such concentration. With two weeks of school left I need to get well and get my butt in gear!

Well, Christmas 2008 wasn’t as gloomy as I’ve made the past week sound. I spent it in Vienna, Austria with my relatives. Fritz and Inge are so warm and loving and do everything in their power to make me feel comfortable and at home. They practically wait on me hand and foot, which includes breakfast and coffee the second I arise out of bed. The first night at their home in Vienna I was exhausted by the 3 hour train ride, visited with Fritz and Inge and reminisced by looking at old photos from their visits to the states during the past 20 years. The Austrians are very organized. Each photo album was proudly displayed on their entertainment center, one after the other, numbered and arranged by year, recently dusted. Displayed like trophies. I enjoyed looking at the memories and family members at a younger age. Less wrinkles, more diapers. I imagined a similar arrangement in my future. Photo albums, trophies, of my year abroad proudly displayed in my future home.

I spent five days in Vienna seeing new sites and meeting family members I had never met. I met my great-aunt Herta who was humorous, kind and a joy to chat with. I met Inge’s son Gerhard and his family who greeted me with the same warmth as Fritz and Inge. I felt confident and brave enough to explore Vienna a little on my own and in the presence of new company. One day I visited the Jüdische (Jewish) Museum on my own and the next the Kunsthistorisches (Art History) Museum with a relative, Christian, and his girlfriend. The art museum in Vienna is one to brag over. It has an awesome collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts including real mummified people and animals! The museum also boasts a fantastic collection master painters including Reubens, Caravaggio, and even Raphael. I was proud to see Parmigianino’s Self-Portrait in a Convex Mirror and recognize the piece from art history class. I’m becoming quite the museum junkie here in Europe!

Christmas Eve finally arrived and for the first time I celebrated the day without the usual lunch and gift exchange between me, my mom, dad and brother. In Austria, Dec. 24 is the big day. The Christkind flies through the window to leave presents for the children and the family spends the day together enjoying each other’s company and good food. I spent Christmas Eve this year in Vienna, Austria with new family and new traditions. Surprisingly, I didn’t feel homesick. Only a little out of sorts not receiving any presents and not eating a big turkey dinner. I ate a delicious Greek meal instead and tried to breath it all in.

When I left Vienna on Christmas Day after a nice long walk in the cool crisp air with Fritz and Inge, I felt more comfortable with Vienna, these distant relatives of mine and the German language. After five days of straight German speaking I learned a few more phrases! I called my family Christmas night when I arrived back in Salzburg and wished them happy holidays from across the Atlantic Ocean.

With no time to relax I flew to London, England on the 26^th of Dec., took a train to Tottenham Hale subway station, the subway to Victoria Coach Station and a bus to Sheffield, England where my friend Steff and her mom Val picked me up. Steff’s mom Val was so generous, full of energy and easy to be around. She welcomed me into her home, fixed me a typical English Sunday roast including my first taste of Yorkshire puddings, and chauffeured me and her two daughters to Durham one day and Chatsworth the next.

The City of Durham was a beautiful, small English town just as you would imagine or see in a movie, and the cathedral was magnificent. The cathedral is the film site of several scenes from the Harry Potter movies; and though I haven’t read the books or seen the films, it felt very Harry Potterish. The same day we paid a visit to the Angel of the North, a 66 ft tall steel angel with a 178 ft wing span. The angel towers over the land as a protector, but in the night it resembles something less protective and more eerie. Still breath-taking.

Chatsworth was beautiful as well as the manor house is also a recognizable film site. Pride and Prejudice (2005) was filmed on the grounds. As I could see why since I wanted to dress up in beautiful dresses with my friends and take photographs amongst the abundant sheep, plush, green grass and magnificent English manor house.

It was finally time for Steff to say goodbye to her mom and for us to head off to London. We were experienced tourists that day and viewed the Parliament building including Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, Tower Bridge, the Tower of London and the main shopping street all before 5:00. And after waking up at 6:00 a.m., riding the train to London, and accomplishing all that we could, we decided to make it an early night by eating dinner and watching a movie together in the hostel. After all, the next day was New Years Eve and back to Salzburg.

Lastly, on this epic journey of Stephanie Clark’s Christmas Vacation 2008-09, I spent New Years Eve in Salzburg with my close friends, Greek food, familiar pub and fireworks over the Salzach River at midnight. It was definitely a night to remember as the firework display seemed to never end and the reflection from the water doubled the luminosity of the night. You never knew from where the next bursting light would come. From the mountains across the river, from down stream or from 10 feet away as a seemingly inexperienced neighbor on the river lights a giant explosive. The beginning of a new year I’ll never forget.

I survived the holidays. Isn’t that what we say every year? I made it gracefully through another milestone of my time here. Send thoughts of health and luck my way as I fight this evil sickness and prepare to wrap up another semester.

]]> http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2009/01/14/christmas-vacation/feed/ 0 clarkstephanie http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2008/12/19/frohe-weihnachten-und-ein-gutes-neues-jahr/ http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2008/12/19/frohe-weihnachten-und-ein-gutes-neues-jahr/#comments Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:14:01 +0000 clarkstephanie http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/?p=54 ]]> Christmas is approaching and I have a busy couple weeks ahead of me. Sitting in my room, writing this blog; I feel like I should be doing something productive like packing maybe? Or doing laundry. Nah, it’ll get done before I take off for Vienna tomorrow.

It’s been an action packed December for this little American girl studying in Salzburg. My third month has almost come to an end and I’ve accomplished so much already. Earlier this month my friends and I took a long weekend trip to Vienna. Beautiful city and I’m excited to return. Last weekend we went on a Ski Excursion sponsored by the International Office. For most of us it was our first ski experience. I didn’t count the one Colorado ski trip I went on with my childhood friend Emily as experience. I was 10 and only remember sliding down the slope face first with my skis at the top of the hill!

We left at 2:00 Friday afternoon and traveled about an hour by bus to Annaberg, Austria, our ski destination. I actually enjoyed skiing by the second day. The first day I compared to a type of torture or some type of manual labor a prison puts you through to make you feel guilty for your crime. My shins were sore from the ski boots, my skin felt like it was on fire, every muscle was sore and our ski instructor, Heidi, repeatedly made us trudge up the side of a slope in our skis just to have us go 30 ft down and do it again.

The second day I conquered my fear and mastered the bunny slope, which seemed like an unattainable task the day before. I felt like I was a natural. Like this was my undiscovered natural athletic ability. I was meant to be a skier. Just when I was thinking about returning home to Kansas, packing my bags and heading to Colorado to take up skiing full time, Heidi suggested we try the intermediate slope.

All of my confidence disappeared after I slid off the lift, stood at the top of that slope and looked down. Maybe I’m not an undiscovered skier trapped in the body of a small 24 year old girl with no balance and no athletic talent. It took all I had left in me after two full days of skiing to get down that hill fall after fall. Getting up is what takes it out of you. At least I can say now I’m a master of standing up in skis on a vertical slope after a fall.

After my frustration melted away with the snow, I felt good about what I had accomplished and may in fact try to ski again. There’s definitely talk of another ski trip amongst the exchange students.

A week after the great Ski Excursion I’m preparing to head to Vienna again to spend Christmas with my family. I’m both a little nervous and excited. The language barrier is still a worry of mine though my German is considerably improving and I’ll be meeting family members I have yet to meet. I’m in the land of my ancestors now. Walking the same streets my grandmother walked upon years before. Standing in front of the same cathedral, the same famous opera house. Though it was a different world then, I still feel her presence and a connection to my family that I never felt before. It’s a good feeling.

The day after Christmas I’m off to England to plant my feet on new soil and attempt to navigate my way from London Stansted Airport to the Mega Bus station, alone. Ahhh!

I want my family to know I miss you so much and am grateful for your support! And also want to wish everyone…

Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Christmas in Austria couldn’t take place without the world-famous Christkindlesmarkt, or Christmas markets. I’m not sure if such a thing exists in the states. If it does, not in Kansas. The Christmas markets here attract visitors from all over the globe who come to purchase locally hand-made crafts, enjoy the ambiance and drink Glühwein. The identical market booths stand side-by-side adorned with lights and triangular rooftops. They beckon each slightly tipsy passer-by with their assortment of colorful crafts from Santa Claus ornaments, to bees wax candles and hand woven scarves. The Chriskindlesmarkt is a world of its own inside each city where you forget where you are; which is a hard thing to do for a small-town American girl fascinated by European architecture.

I’ve visited quite a few of these markets lately and the one in Salzburg numerous times. It adds a new dimension to the Christmas season. In America, Santa is perched in front of Wal-Mart ringing his bell for collection money and advertisements run on billboards and TV commercials for huge Christmas discounts at every store from Old Navy to Best Buy. Here, Christmas is still a religious holiday with personal meaning. The Christkindlesmarkt isn’t a large advertisement production or a way to make millions of dollars. Hopefully a little money is made by the vendors who spend all year crafting their crafts, but more or less it’s a true symbol of Christmas.

Another Austrian Christmas tradition that has lasted through time is the Krampus. Krampus is a large, furry beast reminiscent of the devil and every evil beast you can imagine. He comes out of hiding the beginning of December and punishes the children who didn’t behave well throughout the year. So instead of receiving coal from Santa, the children of the Alpine region get beaten by this beast if they’re naughty.

Thankfully, many parents don’t actually subject their children to the visual Krampus. But, they know of him. For these children all they know of Krampus is from the bag of peanuts or candy he leaves outside their door on December 6. For those children whose parents choose to subject them to Krampus, years of vivid, violent dreams and an undying fear of monsters is in store for them. I saw quite a few screaming, crying children at the recent Krampuslauf I attended and my heart went out to them as I myself was screaming and running from the many Krampusse chasing me with their whips.

They actually whip you. In America, this would never pass, but in Austria they actually whip you. I had a bruise in the shape of the several small tree branches that stung my leg for four days! I haven’t been that terrified for a long time and can’t believe this is a Christmas tradition that takes place year after year. Nevertheless, it is an interesting tradition that I would be sad to see go, like many of the natives here who want to keep their ancient traditions alive.

]]> http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2008/12/17/tis-the-season/feed/ 1 clarkstephanie http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2008/12/02/gobble-gobble/ http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2008/12/02/gobble-gobble/#comments Tue, 02 Dec 2008 08:56:21 +0000 clarkstephanie http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/?p=46 ]]> For my friends here, American Thanksgiving is what Joey, Rachel, Ross, Chandler, Monica and Phoebe celebrated on the popular TV show Friends. When the idea came up to celebrate Thanksgiving they recalled past Friends episodes, laughed about Monica stuffing her head in a turkey and recalled the friends gathering around on Thanksgiving to share memories. They asked me if that’s what Thanksgiving is like and it made me laugh. “I guess every family is different.” The plan was set, Thanksgiving in Salzburg, and this year they would made their own memories.

It was my first Thanksgiving away from my home, but I was excited to spend it with my friends in Salzburg. My foreign friends and I had been planned this day for weeks, and we were all very excited. I feel blessed to have people here who I can not only have fun with, but who support me and care about me. Before the idea to celebrate this day together, I was actually dreading Thanksgiving. I thought it would be the first day I’d be homesick and maybe open the floodgates. But, it wasn’t that way at all. It was the beginning of my own holiday traditions and my first self-orchestrated holiday feast. For the others, it was their first Thanksgiving celebration and a way to keep their American friend’s mind off her family.

The dinner had to be prepared at my friend JP’s apartment since none of us University of Salzburg students have an oven in our residences. I promised to bring the staple American Thanksgiving foods, turkey, green bean casserole and pumpkin pie. Everyone was especially ecstatic about the pumpkin pie since they’d either never had it or heard of it before. I even got a few remarks, “You make pie out of pumpkin!” The others volunteered to bring bread, wine and make various vegetable dishes. I made sure someone volunteered to bring the stuffing as my other favorite Thanksgiving dish, candied yams, had to be forgotten this year due to the price of sweet potatoes.

After scouring the city for ingredients common to American grocery stores, I finally found pumpkin puree in an overly-priced organic market and powdered cream of mushroom soup that would have to replace the Campbell’s can. Steph, Amy and I brought our ingredients and half-prepared dishes to JP’s at about 2:00 to get started. Due to class that morning (yes, class on Thanksgiving) 2:00 was going to have to work. I poured my day-ahead prepared pumpkin pie filling into to handmade crusts and cooked them first. We prepared the turkey with butter and spices and stuck the bird in the oven about 3:00. An hour into cooking time I checked on the turkey and JP and I realized his oven was no longer at optimal temperature. It seemed as though it was kaputt!

JP, his Austrian roommate and I knocked on about 10 neighbors’ doors to ask to borrow an oven but no answer. We ended up borrowing a friend’s oven across the street and running over every hour to baste. During this glorious transformation from raw bird to cooked bird, we finished the preparing the meal, enjoyed wine, each other’s company and a few holiday movies, including my favorite, Elf.

The turkey finally reached golden brown. The dishes were hot, steaming, bubbly and ready to eat. Finally, it all came together at the late hour of 10:00 and my first Thanksgiving dinner away from home was picture perfect. For two Americans, six English, five Irish, two Austrian and one Spanish-speaking girl I’d never met, it ended up being a perfect Thanksgiving dinner. We didn’t care that it was 10:00. We skipped the official giving of thanks, the prayers and all of that. I know, however, that each person that night was thankful for the company, the meal and their first slice of pumpkin pie.

]]> http://esustephanie.wordpress.com/2008/12/02/gobble-gobble/feed/ 1 clarkstephanie